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Dave Read

Appalachian trail hikes in the Berkshires

According to AMCBerkshire.org, there are 15 campsites and shelters along the portion of the Appalachian Trail that runs through the Berkshires. Privys and water are available at each; 2 night maximum stay; ordered north to south in this list. This Berkshires Appalachian Trail map displays approximate locations, but the AT is very well marked and maintained and you shouldn’t have trouble finding your destination, especially since most hikers today carry a GPS device with them while hiking.

Shelters and campsites along the Appalachian trail in the Berkshires

This is a list of campsites and shelters on the Massachusetts portion of the Appalachian Trail, listed from north to south.

Sherman Brook Campsite: 1.8 miles north of Mass Avenue, North Adams

• 4 tent platforms
• Privy
• Bear box
• Water at spring or brook

Wilbur Clearing: 0.3 miles west on Money Brook Falls Trail, 0.5 miles north of Notch Rd.

• Small shelter
• 4 tent platforms
• Moldering Privy
• Bear Box
• Water source down hill in front of shelter

Noepel Shelter: 2.8 miles south of Rockwell Rd.

• Large Shelter
• 3 tent platforms
• Moldering Privy
• Bear Box
• Water 0.2 miles down blue blaze trail to left of shelter

Crystal Mountain Campsite: 3.7 miles north of Gulf Road, Dalton

• Five tent pads
• Privy
• Water source crosses AT just north of side trail to campsite

Kay Wood Shelter: 0.3 miles south of Grange Hall Road, Dalton

• Large Shelter
• Moldering Privy
• Bear box
• Water source, down hill in front of shelter

October Mountain Shelter: 0.7 mile south of West Branch Road, Hinsdale

• Large Shelter
• Moldering Privy
• Bear Box
• Water source crosses AT just south of campsite

Upper Goose Pond Cabin: On 0.5 mile side trail 1.6 miles south of Route 20, Lee

• Cabin is open with a volunteer caretaker in attendance from May 14th to October 23rd. Cabin is closed when no caretaker is present.
• Prior to opening hikers may use the campsites on the approach trail to the cabin and behind the cabin.
• 5 tent platforms are available year round
• 2 Moldering privys, 1 regular Privy
• Bear box

Shaker Campsite: 0.3 miles north of Fernside Rd., Tyringham

• 2 tent platforms
• Privy
• Bear box
• Water is at AT stream crossing 100 yards north of campsite

Wilcox North: on 0.3 mile side trail, 3.1 Miles north from Benedict Pond, Beartown State Forest

• Older Log Shelter
• Privy
• Bear Box
• Water source to left of shelter (may be dry in late summer)

Wilcox South: 1.3 miles North from Benedict Pond, Beartown State Forest

• Small log shelter and large shelter on blue blazed trail just beyond privy
• 5 tent pads
• Privy
• Bear Box
• Water on access trail to shelter

Tom Leonard Shelter: 1.1 mile south of Lake Buel Rd.

• Large shelter
• 1 Tent platform
• Moldering privy
• Bear Box
• Water 0.2 miles down hill to right of shelter downhill on blue blazed trail beyond privy

Glen Brook Shelter and Campsite: 3.4 miles south of Jug End Rd.

• Small shelter
• 2 tent platforms, large tenting area
• Moldering Privy
• Bear box
• Water at stream crossing AT 200, feet south of access trail

Hemlocks Shelter: 3.5 miles south of Jug End Rd.

• Large Shelter
• Moldering Privy
• Bear box
• Water at stream crossing of AT 200, feet north of access trail

Race Brook Falls Campsite: 0.2 mile side trail, 5.4 miles south of Jug End Rd. Also 1.5 miles in from Rt 41 on Race Brook Falls Trail

• 4 tent platforms
• Group camping area
• Moldering privy
• Bear box
• Water at stream on Race Brook Falls trail just east of campsite
• Area contains rare species, please stay on trails and use designated tent sites

Laurel Ridge Campsite: 8.2 miles south of Jug End Road

• 5 tent pads
• 3 tent platform group site
• Moldering privy
• Bear box
• Water at south end of campsite, on side trail

Next campsite (in CT): Sages Ravine, 1.9 miles south of Laurel Ridge.

Berkshires museums and historic sites

April 21, 2016 Article by Dave Read

Interactive map showing Berkshires museums and historic sites. The map icons can be clicked to reveal links for further information about the museum or historic site, as well as a link that opens a form below the map where you can get driving, walking, and/or bicycling directions to the venue. These popular Berkshire county destinations are included:

  • Arrowhead – Herman Melville home,
  • Berkshire Athenaeum,
  • Berkshire Museum,
  • William Cullen Bryant Homestead,
  • Chesterwood – Daniel Chester French studio,
  • Clark Art Institute,
  • Col. John Ashley House – Mumbet home,
  • W.E.B. DuBois Center,
  • Frelinghuysen Morris House,
  • Hancock Shaker Village,
  • Lenox Athenaeum,
  • MASS MoCA,
  • Mission House,
  • The Mount – Edith Wharton Restoration,
  • Naumkeag,
  • Norman Rockwell Museum,
  • Ventfort Hall,
  • Williams College Museum of Art.

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Berkshires history

To read about the history of the Berkshires, we recommend the Berkshire Historical Society, which is located at Herman Melville’s Arrowhead; and the Berkshire Athenaeum is another popular source.

Bartholomew’s Cobble

Apr 19, 2013 Article by Dave Read

We visited Bartholomew’s Cobble, a National Natural Landmark located on the southern edge of the Berkshires, for a hike on Sept. 22, 2013, the Autumn equinox. The hike was led by Rene Wendell, the affable and knowledgeable ranger who oversees the Cobble, which is a property of the Trustees of Reservations, the oldest regional land trust in the world.

Rocks,ferns, giant Cottonwood tree at Bartholomew’s Cobble

Bartholomew’s Cobble’s 60 acres contain a degree of biodiversity that matches the 60,000 acres of Acadia National Park in Maine. We hiked along fewer than half of the Cobble’s 5 miles of trails, in order to identify species of ferns, visit the Housatonic River floodplain area where 1,800 trees were planted in a recent restoration project, including Silver Maple, Box Elder, Cottonwood, Sycamore, Tulip Tree, Hackberry, and seven varieties of disease-resistant Elms, and to see Wendell enter the 2nd largest Cottonwood tree in the state, a 230 year-old specimen which was #1 until a storm felled a giant limb.

About Bartholomew’s Cobble

Bartholomew's Cobble, Sheffield, Massachusetts, view of a ledge with ferns; photo: wiki user Daderot.
Bartholomew’s Cobble, Sheffield, Massachusetts, view of a ledge with ferns; photo: wiki user Daderot.
Bartholomew’s Cobble is a 329 acre site, owned and administered by the Trustees of Reservations, that was created by geologic upheavals when the Taconic and Berkshire ranges were formed. It is a 100′ high bedrock outcropping, containing 800 species of plants, that began as coral reefs, shells, and sand as many as 500 million years ago when this area was an inland sea. When the Taconic and Berkshire mountains were formed, the still-forming strata were pushed upward and flipped over, leaving the rough and rugged underbelly exposed for millennia.

The reservation’s more recent farming history lives on through herd of cattle grazing along the river. The cobbles consist mostly of quartzite and marble, whose alkaline soil supports an unusual array of flora – you’ll find one of North America’s greatest diversities of fern species here. The reservation also boasts one of the largest Cottonwood trees in the state. It’s this amazing diversity that led to the Cobble’s designation as a National Natural Landmark in 1971. Download Bartholomew’s Cobble trail map (PDF).

The high point at Bartholomew’s Cobble, Hurlburt’s Hill, rises 1,000 feet to a 20-acre upland field on the Massachusetts–Connecticut border that offers panoramic views northward up the Housatonic River Valley.

Bartholomew’s Cobble map and driving directions

  • Weatogue Road
  • Ashley Falls
  • Sheffield, MA
  • Telephone: 413.229.8600
  • E-mail: bcobble@ttor.org

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Bartholomew's Cobble trail map

How to get to Bartholomew’s Cobble

From Rt. 7 South in Sheffield, turn right onto Rt. 7A and follow for 0.5 mi. Turn right onto Rannapo Rd. and follow for 1.5 mi. Turn right onto Weatogue Rd. to entrance and parking (30 cars) on left. From Rt. 7 north in Canaan, CT, turn left onto Rt. 7A and cross state border. Turn left onto Rannapo Rd and follow for 0.8 mi. Turn left onto Weatogue Rd. Continue as above.

Ashuwillticook Rail Trail

Ashuwillticook Rail Trail

Ashuwillticook Rail Trail mapBicycling in the Berkshires is getting better for visitors and locals because of the development by the MA Dept. of Conservation and Recreation of the The Ashuwillticook Rail Trail, which is overseen locally by the Berkshire Bike Path Council. Berkshire Regional Planning Commission (BRPC) and the Berkshire Bike path Council (BBPC) help the Boston Metropolitan Planning Organization (MPO) gather information regarding the popularity of multi-use trails state wide. The data we collect is used to advocate for greater trail development.

The Ashuwillticook Rail Trail is a former railroad corridor converted into a 10-foot wide paved, universally accessible, passive recreation path. The Ashuwillticook runs parallel to Route 8 through the towns of Cheshire, Lanesborough, and Adams. The southern end of the rail trail begins at the entrance to the Berkshire Mall off MA Rte. 8 in Lanesborough and travels 11.2 miles north to the center of Adams. Parking lots and restrooms are available at selected locations along the way.

“If one were to imagine a hub of bike trails circumnavigating Mount Greylock, with spokes to all corners of the county, the Berkshires would become the best bike region east of the Mississippi and one of the top five in North America. The draw of that would be immense: something like Tanglewood, the Clark, and Jiminy Peak all rolled into one.”

– Joseph Thompson, Director, MASS MoCA
The rail trail passes through the Hoosic River Valley, between the Mount Greylock and the Hoosac Mountain Ranges. Cheshire Reservoir, the Hoosic River, and associated wetlands flank much of the trail offering outstanding views of the scenery and abundant wildlife. The name Ashuwillticook (ash-oo-will-ti-cook) derives from the Native American word for the south branch of the Hoosic River and literally means “at the in-between pleasant river,” or in common tongue, “the pleasant river in between the hills.” The name was adopted for the trail as a way to reconnect people to local history and the natural environment.

Mount Greylock State Reservation

Mount Greylock

Autumn view of Mt. Greylock, from the east.Mount Greylock is the highest point in Massachusetts, with an elevation of 3,491 feet. It spans the Berkshire county towns of North Adams, Adams, Lanesborough, Cheshire, Williamstown and New Ashford, dominating the Berkshire landscape; from the summit, dramatic views of 60-90 miles distant may be seen. It became Massachusetts’ first wilderness state park, acquired by the Commonwealth in 1898, to preserve its natural environment for public enjoyment. Wild and rugged yet intimate and accessible, Mount Greylock rewards the visitor exploring this special place of scenic and natural beauty.

From Wikipedia: “The summit of Mount Greylock is located in Adams, but the mountain spreads into the towns of North Adams, Williamstown, Cheshire, New Ashford and Lanesborough. Mount Greylock is composed of a north-south oriented central ridge: Saddle Ball Mountain 3,247 ft (990 m); Mount Greylock, the high point (3,491 ft (1,064 m); Mount Fitch (3,110 ft/950 m); and Mount Williams (2,951 ft/899 m); flanked by two subordinate ridges: on the west by Mount Prospect (2,690 ft/820 m) and Stony Ledge (2,560 ft/780 m), and on the east by Ragged Mountain (2,528 ft/771 m). (Photo from Wikipedia, used according to GNU license.)

“Prior to the arrival of Europeans the Mahican people were closely associated with this region. The traditional trade route connecting the tribes of the Hudson and Connecticut River Valleys (today, Route 2, known as the Mohawk Trail) passes beneath the northern flank of Mount Greylock. The mountain was known to eighteenth century English settlers as Grand Hoosuc(k). In the early 19th century it was called Saddleback Mountain because of its appearance (Saddle Ball, the name of the peak to the south, still reflects this).

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“The origin of the present name of Greylock and its association with the mountain is unclear. It first appeared in print about 1819, and came into popular use by the 1830s. It may be in reference to its appearance, as it often has a gray cloud, or lock of gray mist upon his head, or in tribute to a legendary Native American chief, Gray Lock. Gray Lock (c.1670-1750) was a Western Abenaki Missisquoi chief of Woronoco/Pocomtuc ancestry, born near Westfield (MA). Gray Lock distinguished himself by conducting guerrilla raids into Vermont and western Massachusetts in the conflict variously known as Dummer’s War, Three Years War, Lovewell’s War, The War with the Eastern Indian or Father Rasle’s War. Although it is not clear whether he was actually ever personally associated with the mountain, perhaps in tribute to his notoriety the mountain came to bear his name.”

Remembering Dave Brubeck

Remembering Dave Brubeck in the Berkshires

Dave Brubeck in the Berkshires, Pittsfield CityJazz Festival, Oct. 17, 2009
Dave Brubeck in the Berkshires, Pittsfield CityJazz Festival, Oct. 17, 2009; photo: Dave Conlin Read.
We’re re-posting material in the wake of Dave Brubeck’s death Dec. 5, 2012, the day before his 92nd birthday. Dave Brubeck performed in the Berkshires throughout his legendary career, from the 1950s at the fabled Music Inn in Lenox to a 2009 Pittsfield CityJazz Festival performance at the Colonial Theatre.

Mr. Brubeck’s last performance in the Berkshires was a presentation of BerkshiresJazz.org, which afforded us the opportunity, as a member of the organization, to shoot some video during the afternoon rehearsal, where he prepared for his duet with high school student Sam Landes on Duke Ellington’s Take the A Train.

Dave Brubeck rehearshing “Take the A Train”

Dave Brubeck at 2002 Tanglewood Jazz Festival

September 1, 2002 performance review by Dave Conlin Read.

Three tunes into his 2½ hour 2002 Tanglewood Jazz Festival concert, Dave Brubeck said, “I like to introduce new stuff when I play here because the audience is so kind.” Makes you wonder if “here” referred to the seven year old Ozawa Hall where tonight’s gig was, or the Koussevitsky Music Shed, which opened when he was 18 in 1938, or just hereabouts, which would include the site of the fabled Music Barn and the Lenox School of Jazz, where he performed and taught during the 1950s. Regardless, what a treat it was to be in the audience while Dave Brubeck is introducing new material!

That new song was Crescent City Stomp, and it was built around an infectious beat established by drummer Randy Jones, a beat Brubeck said you hear all over New Orleans. Bobby Militello’s saxophone was the featured instrument after the drum intro and Brubeck himself was the most enthused member of the audience for a while, as he would be throughout the evening, whenever his bandmates took their many solos.

Rounding out the quartet, all dressed smartly in dinner jackets and black slacks, was bassist Michael Moore, who plucked and bowed several eloquent passages from his bass, which his languid body fairly enfolded. There were times when you’d think Moore was a ventriloquist for the cleanly enunciated lines he drew from his instrument, but an inartful one because all the while you could see his lips moving! (Read comprehensive bios of the band, from Hedrick Smith’s PBS show “Rediscovering Dave Brubeck.“)

Introducing the evening’s first tune, Brubeck said that for fifty years he started concerts with St. Louis Blues, but tonight would start with the title tune from his current release, “The Crossing.” He told about a trans-Atlantic jazz cruise with about 100 musicians aboard the QE II, which got underway on the Hudson, passed the Verazzano Narrows and into the Atlantic, ” – and we worked up a head of steam, which I hope we do tonight.”

They did.

The tune was some piece of magical mimicry; it was easy to imagine a grand ship honking and chugging away from the pier and soon enough finding its way into rough waters evoked by churning bass notes, then Brubeck took the helm playing long melodious lines, the ship rocking smoothly through eddies and swells.

In telling us that on September 21, he’ll celebrate his 60th wedding anniversary, Brubeck introduced the next tune, All My Love, a translucent ballad that had him hunched over the keyboard, his eyes only inches away from his hands playing so few notes that you could count them.

After The Crossing, came the haunting Elegy, an intimate composition that Ozawa Hall was designed for, where it seems to become part of the ensemble. Continuing in that vein, Brubeck introduced Don’t Forget Me with a few minutes of distant romantic lines that suddenly turned immediate and raucus with another of Militello’s expansive sax solos, and then had Brubeck’s hands flying all over the keyboard before he returned to the lonely little melody that he began with.

This was a very special evening of jazz, a million miles away from being a museum piece, every tune imbued with freshness and vigor. Brubeck’s age was apparent only when he stepped over to the mic, which he did several times to introduce tunes during the first set, which was probably pre-arranged as opposed to the second which I think he made up from the bench as he went along.

It began with Pennies From Heaven, dedicated to the people on the lawn who were being rained upon lightly. Brubeck played out the celestial theme in the next two tunes, Somewhere Over the Rainbow, and Sunny Side of the Street, developing each while the band listened to hear where they were going. Militello’s flute solo on – Rainbow was ineffably sublime. Sunny Side – was rollicking, and at one point Brubeck pointed toward Moore and drew a circle in the air, indicating another round of solos for all.

The audience responded to the celestial set with thunderous applause, which the quartet accepted graciously and which Brubeck seemed overwhelmed by, his grin so broad as he looked into the audience and then around to his band to spread out the acclaim. After his fans got quiet again, he mischievously noodled a few lines from Singing in the Rain then broke into the first notes of Take Five, the Paul Desmond composition from “Time Out,” the world’s first million-selling jazz record.

It was a thrilling rendition, featuring Militello’s slow reinterpretation of the theme before returning it to a rambunctiousness that Brubeck brought to a gleeful level which Randy Jones exploded with a virtuoso display of drumming. Brubeck brought the tune back to earth and then Jones laid down the tastiest little drum coda for the ultimate punctuation to this landmark of jazz.

Sustained applause brought these giants back on stage, Brubeck played a few notes of Brahm’s Lullabye to everybody’s amusement before the quartet re-loaded for Take the A Train, which was a rumbling jam session, the sea cruise of two hours earlier long over. It went on until Brubeck, answering a questioning look from Militello, raised his hands from the keyboard, turned them into pistols and fired a volley into the air.

This performance was a slice of jazz for the ages, delivered by the ageless gentleman genius Dave Brubeck and his virtuoso sidemen, each of whom was brilliant tonight.

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